Gorgeous Gateau

18-20 September 
On Friday we took a long walk through the Black Forest. The leaflets from the local tourist information office were not exactly helpful in identifying the highlights of the area but they seemed to suggest that Hinterzarten offered several possibilities for the eponymous gateau, so we decided to head in that direction. 

We soon passed a series of ski jumps – the take-off point for one of them was level with the footpath, so we took a look. Whatever possesses someone to hurl themselves off?

We then picked up signs to the Ravenna gorge, which was a delightful little valley with a stream flowing over a series of cascades. They are also restoring the various types of historic water-driven saw mill. For its size the valley had way more than its fair share.  

By that stage it was mid-afternoon and definitely time to try the local delicacy. So we headed back to Hinterzarten and found a café. It was good cake. As we were going to pay two old ladies sat down then promptly left without ordering. One stopped and in a stage whisper informed us it was the best cake in town, but her sister insisted on going to the five star hotel up the road to be seen!

Leaving Titisee the following morning we headed for Triberg – home to Germany’s tallest waterfall. It is 163m from top to bottom but descends in seven steps, so Mark felt they were cheating somewhat and it is actually seven small waterfalls! The town is also home to the worlds biggest cuckoo clock but we declined a visit, just glancing at it from the road. 

We needed to start heading north as we have to be back on Friday, so we took the scenic route along the Black Forest highway to Rastatt where we parked in the swimming pool car park which surprisingly does have electricity points for camper vans. Whilst there Mark took the chance to visit ‘the little hop boy’ pub for dinner, BBC colleagues reading this will know this is a good place to eat and drink. 

We had planned to stop on Sunday night in the Weinstrasse and maybe do some sampling, but finding nothing going on in Neustadt we moved on and are now parked in Cochem on the side of the Mosel. There are plenty of opportunities for sampling here – not just wine, but the local mountain peaches too, which have just been harvested and were being peddled from dozens of little stalls in town last night in many forms. 



  1. How very Horst Jankowski. If “Whatever possesses someone to hurl themselves off?” is not just a rhetorical question, one answer might be reading Chapter 8 of a thesis on the cultural exception!


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